Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Door Bellow (Whirlpool Part # W10111435)


Hi! It’s Steve from PartSelect. Today, we
are going to show you how to change the door bellows on your washer and it’s a really
easy job. All we are going to need is a #20 Torx bit, a quarter nut driver, a flat blade
screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver. Let me show you how we do it. Now before we begin
this repair, we are going to discontinue the power to the washer, so simply pull the plug.
The first step will be to remove the lower access panel. So I would like to pull the
washer head, just a little bit so that we can tilt it back and then we will put a couple
of 2/4 blocks under the front legs, just to make it easier to access the screws securing
the access panel. With a quarter nut driver, we will remove the three screws and I would
like to start with the two outside side ones first, and then remove the center one last,
and you may need to have a little upper pressure on that panel to hold it in place where you
remove the screw, and let it drop down. You will note that there are two locating tabs
that fit into matching slots in the bottom of the front panel. So we will set the access
panel aside, and next we will remove the soap box, just pull it out until it catches on
the stop, and then depress that little tab at the back left corner, which will release
it and allow you to pull it completely out. We can then remove the #20 Torx screw just
to the left of that opening and then we are going to just lift up gently on that control
panel to disengage some tabs across the top; there is one on each corner and one in the
center, and if need be just take a flat blade screwdriver and gently pry it upwards. Once
we remove the console, you will see whether our three little tabs across the top of the
control panel and a locating tab on the right hand side that fits into this slot, and the
little tabs on the top fit into that retainer bar across the top. So we can set that aside and we also have
two quarter inch Hex Head screws on the top and two in the bottom that secure that front
panel, but before we remove those, I will open the door. We are going to remove the
two screws that secure the door latch assembly to the front panel. They are #20 Torx screws
and they have it built-in flat washer on those screws. So we are going to make sure that
we don’t mix these up, with the screw that held the control panel in place. Next we are
going to disengage the bellows from the front panel, and it has a metal band clamp around
it with a short spring on the very bottom. So with the flat blade screwdriver, we are
just going to go in between that bellows and the metal clamp and just pull outward on it,
enough that we can actually roll off of the front panel and we will set that aside, then
we are going to pull that bellows away from the front panel all the way around you will
see that it has a little groove in it, that fits into that formed channel on the front
panel, just peel a little bit all the way around and then tuck it inside out of the
way. Now we can remove the front panel with the
door attached. So we will remove those top screws first and then two in the bottom, just
keep a little pressure against that front panel to hold it in position and now with
the weight of the door open that front panel and we want to use both hands to just pull
out on the bottom, and let it drop down and you can pull it out far enough which you can
lift right out of the way, and we will set that aside. We will now have access to the
door bellows and it is held in place with a clamp [indiscernible] [00:03:52] engages
on the front panel, except that it has a screw-type fastener on the side. So with the Phillips
screwdriver, we are going to loosen that clamp and just take note how much that clamp tightens
before you remove the old one and we can just lift that clamp out of the opening and again,
it has same type of a wire band and we will set that aside. Now we can peel the boot off the outer tub
and we will discard the old bellows. Now to install the new one, we need to first of all
find out where the top of the boot is. There will be some drain holes on the bottom and
the top will have an arrow-shaped projection that faces in towards the tub. And we will
need to look at the outer lip, this is where the band will fit and if you hold that open
that is where it is going to engage around that tub. So before we put the new bellows
on, we will clean up any soap debris around the lip of that tube first. So just with the
mild detergent and water, we will clean that up first. Now we will take that boot and then
we are going to fit it into the opening of the tub, and we are going to center up the
very top, and we are going to peel that out around the lip of the outer tub and just start
it in a couple of spots till we get it roughly into position. And you may want to remove
the door latch assembly, just lift it up out of its holder and let it hang out of the way,
and it will give you a little more access and before we get too far around, we want
to again make sure that we have it centered properly and that the bottom is lined up and
it is centered on the bottom. While keeping in mind the inner portion of the door boot
was actually inside the lip of the inner basket and then this portion will fold over that
lip on the outer tub, and the outer portion of it is actually where the metal wire band
clamp will go. So again we make sure that we push that in
and we will use two hands one on the inside, and one on the out, we will just pull that
around and make sure that it seats properly over that lip on the outer tub, and then we
can put the clamp on it. And again you may want to remove the soap box to outer tub hose,
simply just squeeze it and pull it out. You will note that there is a little locating
arrow stamped on the hose and as well there is the corresponding arrow on the outer tub
here at the end of my finger. So when we put that back in we want to make sure that those
line up so that the hose isn’t twisted. But that will give better access to put the
clamp in as well as room to put your screwdriver in, to tighten the screw on the clamp. Now
once for sure that we have it properly fitted over that lip on the other tub, it should
sit flush all the way around. We can then put the clamp back on and we will just hook
it in on the right hand side first. So we will make sure that that wire clamp fits into
the V-groove all the way around and then just wiggle it around till we get it in position.
It doesn’t slide very well on that boot, so we want to make sure that we have it fairly
closed before we begin and then loosen the screw enough that it will turn freely. What
we need to be careful of is that this little curled portion on the wire band right below
the head of the screw does not get down into the threads. If that happens the screw will
not engage or will engage the threads, and it won’t tighten the clamp. So make sure
it is sitting flush on it first. We can then tighten it up and just double check to make
sure it hasn’t popped out anywhere. And if this soap box, it has tub hose is in your
way, you can pop that out of the tub quite easily. Just tuck it back out of the way so
that you have more access for your screwdriver. Now make sure it is tightened securely and
again check to make sure that we haven’t popped it out anywhere, and then make sure
that we fit that soap box hose back into the opening. Now there is quite a flange that actually
goes inside the opening and then you will notice there is a smaller flange that sits
on the outside of the tub, and there is little locating arrow there too that matches up with
an arrow on the front of the tub cover. So we will just force it into the opening, and
then pull it back out until it sits flush and make sure it is rotated into proper direction
so that it doesn’t kink. Now before we put the front panel back on
we will set the door latch into its holder and then we can put on the front panel. So
we need to engage these two corners where the holes for the screws are going to go through
properly in behind as well as that whole perimeter edge is going to fit in behind that upper
access panel. So we will tuck one side in, tuck the other in and then press it into place
and we will need to hold that there long enough to put a couple of screws in it. And we won’t
tighten those yet till we get the bottom ones in. I want to make sure that we have that
front panel squared to the cabinet and tighten those screws securely as well as the top ones. Next we will open that door and we are going
to guide that door latch into the opening, and we will replace those two screws, those
are the #20 Torx with the flat washer built in. Next we will just start them first and
we want to make sure that the door switch button fits into that opening in the front
panel, before we tighten it, so that it doesn’t bind up and we can snug those screws up. Next
we are going to pull that door boot through the opening and then similar to how we mounted
it on the outer tub, we will note that there is a V-groove all the way around the outside
that a metal clamp is going to fit into as well as reverse side of that will tuck around
that lip of the door opening. So we need to first fit that in there, all the way around
and when properly fitted it should sit flush against the front panel. If you had difficulty
with that bellows sliding over that lip, you can moisten them backside of it with just
water and that will make it slide into place a little easier and check all the way around
and make sure it is flushed and seated properly tucked right into the opening. It is recessed
in that area and the lip of that bellow should tuck right into that recess. Now there is also a recess in the panel itself
and that is where we are going to locate the spring on the clamp. Before we engage it,
we want to make sure that the hooks on the end of the spring are pulled fully into that
slotted opening on both sides, and then we can just lay that into that V-groove. Make
sure it fits firmly into it and we will pull it as far as we can by hand. And then with
a flat blade screwdriver with a fairly large end on it that will fit into that slot, we
will grip that opening. We can stretch the spring and that will allow us to roll the
wire band down into the groove, and just carefully inspect it. Make sure it didn’t roll out
anywhere and then we are okay there. Next we will reinstall the control panel and
again we want to make sure that we engage those three tabs across the top into the receptacles
on that little nylon bar, and line up the locating tab on the end. Make sure it is fitted
around the soap box and then just snap it into place. We will next replace that #20
Torx screw on the far left hand side and then the soap box. So we will line up the two rails
with the appropriate slots on either side and just pull it back out to make sure that
the stop is working properly. We can now put the lower panel in and make sure the locating
pins line up with the opening at the bottom of the front panel, and I will put the center
screw in first while holding an upward pressure on that panel and then the two side ones.
Next we can tilt the machine back enough to remove the temporary blocking, and now we
are ready to reconnect the power and our repair is complete. I told you it was an easy job.
Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.

100 thoughts on “Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Door Bellow (Whirlpool Part # W10111435)

  • Thank you for the video my 18 &13 boys fixed our washer watching this video. I couldn't be happier you saved me a lot of money.

  • Thanks Steve! You made it look easy. It wasn't. Not because your directions weren't good….  Only because screws don't match up (I'm talking to you, deformed bottom panel) and the concrete frame blocks the angle of the screwdriver/nut driver to loosen (we had to cut the old gasket out and pry it out from under the clamp) or tighten the clamp. (three times is a charm) and I can't even remember what all we did but we did do it, three hours fifteen minutes.

  • Thank you very helpful video , I would not of tackled this without you. –my control panel (whirlpool duet sport)had an additional screw underneath control knob that I had to watch out for and no tensioner ring on door ( possibly should have ). Putting boot on tub portion required some patience lol
    Thanks again

  • Easy to follow, high-quality resolution, good audio, good teacher.  I would not have been able to tackle this job without this excellent video.  Thank you!

  • Steve thanks for the excellent video. Although my machine was a Whirlpool Duet model, the process is virtually identical. The only extra step I had to [take/figure out] with my model was to locate and release a center screw from underneath the control panel and it came off easily. The remain steps were as simple as shown. Much appreciated. Saved over $100 I'm sure. So your video was worth every second!  😉

  • You're the guy I go to for repairs. Your Instructions are right on target.  You make me look Like I know what I'm doing.  Thank you

  • 60 year old woman here with no mechanical ability, at all.  Replaced the door boot seal with ease flowing your clear and easy to follow instructions.  Definitely the best I found anywhere!  Just needed a little help getting the outside ring back on (weak hands!) Thank you so much!

  • Just wanted to say thank you for your video.  After having a tech inspect the job and a big bill for just pressing some buttons, I decided to try my hands at replacing the bellow myself.  Glad I did and your video gave me the confidence to try doing the repair.  Tech said it wouldn't be as easy as I would think.  But having view your video, I now know it's not true.  It's easy.  The only challenge is getting the outer clamp back on.  It took some fidgeting but eventually got it on.  Thanks so much again.  Awesome professional how-to video and really easy to follow.  Looking forward to seeing your other videos.

  • Thank You Steve. I really appreciate how you pointed out the arrows and took your time. Also the difference in the screws, that helped me seperate them so I got them back in the right place. I was told by the appliance store that this was a hard job, so I was plesantly supprised. The only struggle I had was in getting the bellow started. I got this job done in about 45 minutes.

  • My husband and I just followed your video and were able to change out our boot bellow, NO PROBLEM! Your directions were PERFECT and the BEST that I found over other one's. Thank you so much for this!!

  • Thank you very much for this video. It was easy to follow and saved us quite a bit of money. Very detailed and helpful.

  • Nice video instructions. I just replace my door bellows (seal) and found your instructions very helpful. Only one thing though, you do this for a living I assume, so you make it look so easy 🙂 It took me about an hour and 20 minutes…the outside wire ring on the door was a bear! Thanks for the help.

  • Great video.

    But it's not necessary to remove anything more than the lower panel. I just repaired my machine by removing the lower panel and taking everything else through the open door.

  • Replaced our bellows last night. Took about 1 hour 30 mins. Working great. This a great video and easy to follow. Thanks.

  • I can't believe how much money this video saved me! Got mine done in just under an hour. The step by step guide made it extremely easy to disassemble it then reassemble. Thanks so much!

  • Thanks for the video!  Got it replaced thanks to you!  I'm a hero to my wife now!
    For those having trouble getting the outer ring back on, use vise grips and a single blade screwdriver to really stretch the spring.  Put the ring on the top and the sides and then use the tools to stretch the spring and locate the ring around the bottom.  Then remove the tools and voila!

  • Thanks very much for such a helpful and very clear demonstration of how to replace the bellows. You saved me tons of money in service charges. You're providing a great public service.

  • Went almost exactly as he said. Very easy replacement. Only thing I did different was use a second flatblade screwdriver to help the final ring into place. Awesome video. Thanks to PartSelect for making it.

  • awesome video my bellow is on order.. think my pump may have burnt up because I had rubber in the filter.. it will drain if you disconnect the hose from the back…

  • thanks for the video. i am having trouble getting the second spring on. i dont get where the flat head screw driver is placed to properly stretch the spring to fit over the bellow

  • Thanks Steve and PartSelect!
    Hint: I had a small slit any the bottom of the bellows that caused a leakin. While waiting on the part, I filled the slit with tub and tile silicone caulking, and let it dry overnight. This allowed me to use the washer while waiting on the part! Just in case, I also removed the bottom cover per your first step in the instructions and stuck a pan underneath the door and sealed slit, just in case the silicone plug gave away. It didn't, thankfully.
    I received the parts from PartSelect and then installation was a breeze. Not saying I did not rewind on the instructions a few times, but after the first replay I was back at it and finished the step in minutes.
    As with all these types of jobs – give yourself some time to take it slow and methodical. It pays off in minimizing mistakes and frustration.
    Thank again everyone at PartSelect!
    Don

  • We are lucky to find great and professional sharing skills and show people how saving money,thank you for sharing your videos with us,God bless you.

  • thanks so much – this video helped me save $300. the appliance guy quoted me $170 in labor and $197 for the part. I found the part on Amazon for $72 and did it under 2 hours. No leaks!

  • Fix the leak and save yourself a lot of money at the same time. Simply buy some "D" profile flexible door weatherstripping and next squeeze some Instant Gorilla Glue around the edge of the bellow and glue the weatherstripping by following the circular face of the bellow. Probably any instant glue would work. It may not have that "factory" look but who cares. This repair costs under $20, while I was quoted around $150 just for a new bellow part.

  • Thank you! Thank you! You took the intimidation out of an intimidating project. One question though: the replacement bellow I got has four small rectangular indentations where the old one has four holes. Am I to punch through the indentations to open them? Thanks for your help….again.

  • The part you removed in the video looks exactly like mine (P/N 8540952). But all the info i found on the internet says that the replacement P/N is W10111435. It looks very different from the original part. In your clip you show a very brief image at the beginning that looks like W10111435. But the video itself looks like you are reinstalling the old 8540952. I have the W10111435 that I ordered in part because this video made replacing it look simple. But I am stumped on how to make W10111435 fit.

  • Fixed Mine For Free! I have a Duet Sport that was leaking because 2" of the seal had torn off at the bottom. I rotated it 180 degrees so the torn part was at the top and now no leaks. Thanks for your helpful video.

  • This Video was point on!!! was very helpful due to his instructions! watched one before finding this one, did not work at all! So thank you so much for video!

  • I thought this video was excellent. With a friend we completed the repair in 1-1/4 hours. But now the drier drum is rubbing on the new bellows. During the final spin cycle, it sounds like a Maserati race car. We followed these instructions to the letter. I am lost as to what to do. No one answers the phone at Part Select.

    So I am less than happy with my results.

  • You make great videos! I recently used one to replace the drain pump and it made it very easy. However, I noticed there was a leak that was coming from the concrete counterweight in the front. I read that this sign of a damaged bellow. I carefully inspected the bellow and found no rips or tears.
    My question is: is it possible that tightening the springs would get rid of the leak?

  • PartSelect, it took you 2 weeks to respond to my comment? Unacceptable! And yes, I did figure out what had gone wrong.

  • when removing top control panel face plate dont forget qbout the allen bolt in the center of the bottom

  • The boot appears too big. I can get it on about 3/4 of the way and then there is too much rubber. Do I have the wrong part? Washer model # 11047542602 and the part # for the bellow is: W1011435. Please help!!

  • I have a Model # WFW8300SW03 WHIRLPOOL Residential Washer.  The console has 2 screws one under control knob must open door to see it. I watched another video the weights on the front of the tub were removed. This makes putting the door bellows on the drum much easier. good video but the little things that kill you

  • All I can say is that this video was EXTREMELY helpful! The only problem I had was that after I had the new bellow all installed and ready to put the last two panels back on, I suddenly realized that I had forgotten to put the soap tube back on! So I had to disassemble the door panel after I had so much trouble getting that spring ring back in place. But now it works perfectly! No more leak! Thanks for the help! 🙂

  • My Maytag was almost identical to this machine. The steps provided here were extremely helpful. I tried to make too much of a deal installing the bellow between the tub and frame. It just tucks in there pretty easily once it's attached to the outside lip. Also I had a lot of problem with the outer spring clamp. The key: keep it perfectly straight with the front of the machine. I found the screwdriver was the best way to stretch the spring. Other videos recommend just using your fingers or a pair of vice grips. The screwdriver works best in my opinion. Also removing the doors and other front panels make the job so much easier. Good video.

  • My husband said he wanted to let you know this was a great video. He followed it step by step and had no problems. I now have a leak free machine. It only took him 7 months to fix it!!!! I need to thank you. LOL

  • Fantastic video. Thank you. Can you help me replace the front shock absorber for this model? I can't seem to find a video anywhere. My machine is a Kenmore he2 but assuming its the same and the Whirlpool?

  • My wife have bugging me for months about our washer leaking after washing clothes. I'm not a handyman myself but can take care a few things
    around the houses. When she said that if I can't fixed it then she'll have to call a repairman because we can't afford to have a leak upstairs and
    And causes a mold, that was my wake up call..just by hearing repairman I saw dollar signs big bills coming up..I turned to YouTube to check some videos about washer causing leak.I came across other videos ( not this one ) showing causes of leak and I found out about that the billow has ripped in so many places thus causing the leak..I checked my washer model number I found the same exact parts I came across this awesome video and the rest is history.I probably would have paid my local repairman at least 200 bucks just to install it not including the parts.(190$Canadian)
    This is the same exact model I have that's why I was able to fixed it in no time.It covers every little details..more power to you Sir.

  • I took it down to my vice and stretched it out a couple times- had about an 1" give in it. That and another pair hands wrestled it into place. Thanks for this video!

  • Steve,
    Very kind of you to take the time. I am sure you have helped an innumerable amount of DIY's over the past three years. It took some time but I'm not as spry as I used to be but, with a lot of patience, and some muscle; I was successful. I could not have done this task without your help. Your video is particular to my Whilpool WFW 8500 sr00. PERFECT! Your instruction was spot on.
    Thank you

  • Thank you so much for the professional and perfect directions on this repair. I bought this same washer and dryer on Craigslist for $200 total and had to replace this part. Watched your video twice and twenty minutes later, no more leaks! Thanks again!

  • Great video very helpful I had to take the weight off the front of my machine to make it easier to Get the bellow to fitThanks so much

  • Great video! Everything went just as shown. No hitches at all. Much better than the instructions on the Sears Parts website.

  • thanks for the video. Saved me a repair cost. On top of the cost of the bellow I would have almost better to buy a new washer.

  • This is my machine. It was not easy as this guy says. I think he just replaced the one he had just taken off. It was probably stretched to fit and makes it easy to get back on. My dryer sets atop my washer and I removed the dryer with a neighbors help but now I dont think I needed to do that. He forgot to mention there is a screw under the control panel that needs to be removed and it took a while for me to find it because the panel would not come off. I saw one video showing the replacement without taking off the front panel but it was impossible to remove mine without taking off the front panel. I did not use water or detergent on the bellows which made it much harder to get into the grooves I'm sure. The outer ring was the biggest problem. My neighbor and I both attempted numerous times to stretch the band into the groove, but everytime the bellows would pull loose from the groove. It was very frustrating as I am 70 and not as agile as I use to be. We finally made a modification to the spring to make it a bit longer and was able to tighten it and get it to stay. My machine is a Whirlpool and I order the bellows from amazon and cost $69. Looked exactly as the one that came out which had numerous holes and tears which caused my machine to leak but not everytime.
    You can save some big bucks if you diy, but you should have a helper to hold in place while you maneuver the bellows into the slots and grooves and be ready for some frustration. IMO this is not an easy job.

  • Thanks so much for the video! This was a lifesaver. You make it look too easy haha. Getting that damned wire with the spring back on was brutal. I had to take two pliers and disconnect the spring, then bend one end of the wire into a hook and mangle the end of the spring a bit so I could forcibly hook the spring back on.

  • I want to meet the designer that thought it was a good idea to angle those two machine screws on the lower panel so that the only way you can get them off is to life the front. I have my drier stacked, so that's basically impossible to do.

  • Great DIY video. Thanks. I was puzzled by your instruction (at 6:16) to install the "inner portion of the door boot goes inside the lip of the inner basket" which I found impossible to do and theoretically problematic as the rotating inner basket would then rub against the bellows. I looked at a few other vids and concluded that the bellows cannot possibly install inside of the stainless steel "inner basket". I installed it accordingly (so that the inner portion of the bellows is between the outer rim of the inner basket and the inner rim of the outer drum and so far it works – no leaks. Fingers crossed. Again thank you.

  • Qqqhttp://www.partselect.com/PS2003890-Whirlpool-12002533-Bellow.htm?SourceCode=6#RepairVideohttp://www.partselect.com/PS2003890-Whirlpool-12002533-Bellow.htm?SourceCode=6#RepairVideo

  • Thanks, Great Video for us Do It Yourselfers, I bought the parts from Sears, OEM parts, and reasonable. The Old machines look a lot prettier.

  • You Sir, are a God Send, thank you so much! I ordered the boot online for $100. The labor would have cost me another $200 (at least) I'm sure. Very concise and explained everything as needed in a calm and well-paced manner. THANK YOU!!!!

  • While I thought the general info was good, the audio good, but the video lacked some of the close-up details (inner lip of the boot).

  • One of the best videos tutorial. I just changed the door boot today on my Kenmore model (luckily was the same model as above). The video made it so easy!!! Great job!

  • There was an edit near the end of the installation of the spring clamp. Is it possible that the install of the spring clamp wasn't quite as easy as he made it look? That spring clamp is a complete bitch to install. It took me about four hours to get the spring clamp installed. The key seems to be that the clamp needs to be down in the v-groove and the v-groove on my new bellow was not well defined. If the clamp isn't down in the v-groove of the bellow it will just slip off when you attempt to pull it to the right with pliers. I found needle-nose pliers to be the best method. I also used a pizza cutter covered with duct tape to roll around the bellow to help force the bellow down into the metal groove. I ended up using some duct tape to hold the clamp into the v-groove while I was pulling the clamp with pliers. Finally, this video was 100% complete and correct for the model of washer that I had. Some people are claiming that the removal of an extra screw was not shown in the video. No – those people probably have a slightly newer model of the washer but most of them are very similar but maybe not the EXACT same model that was shown in the video. My washer is a Maytag Epic-Z MHWZ600TB02. Great video!

  • Thanks! This video saved me a LOT of money! The job was pretty easy -but you made it look a lot easier than it was for me. It was tedious, but well worth it!

  • This is great. Saved me tons of money. Well explained. It depends on your washer model on different little bolts. Mine was exactly the model he was working on. Thanks, parts select or whoever put this up.

  • great video. replaced the bellows but now a new problem is the door won't lock .If I hold it shut and start the washer , it locks and the light showing it is locked goes on, then unlocks and the washer stops. What did I do wrong?

  • Steve, many many thanks you for your demonstration. I just fixed my new door bellow, denying the potential technician $170:). My work progressed so smoothly, like a knife through cheese! I used, vinegar though, instead of a mold detergent, for cleaning the surface of the lips.God bless you.

  • Thank you so much for the easy to follow instructions. I was able to make through all the steps fairly quickly and I have zero appliance and mechanical experience. The hardest part was, ironically, what i thought would be the easiest – putting back on the spring loaded retainer band. Just takes a little patience. The repair man estimated $400 so I saved a bunch. Again, thanks for video.

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